On the island of Kunda, connected by a small bridge to the Turkish coast near the town of Ayvalık, a real hermit lives.
Hermit. At once you image the hairy man with a cane in one hand and a dead hare in the other. But Ramazan is not the same – he appeared out of nowhere with a gray beard, shorts, a sullen look, and his own business. He settled 16 years ago near the sea in Ayvalik, and after that he never went out to the city. “For what? After all, they will come here anyway,” he said, smiling. And he is right – from March to November, the space outside his house is full of people.
The house is a converted bus, standing on the shore of the Aegean Sea with the hills on the right and the olive wood on the left . The entrance to the residence is crowned with a bull skull and the treasures of the sea are kept beneath the door; the owner collected them over the years of his loneliness. Although he is not alone. He has a cat, a dog and a never-ending supply of wine and grog, which is constantly replenished by the people who come here. What draws them here? It’s simple. Ramazan equipped the seashore as a kind of recreation area. His hands fashioned comfy huts, purchased familiar plastic tables and chairs, and even five barbecues and ten sacks of coal.
Couples, noisy and funny families, groups of friends come to this lost sandy beach, rent a tent and a barbecue on the grill, standing in the water. You can put a table into the water. So it becomes romantic.
A lot of customers bring food with them and often ask the owner what he needs. And all because of Ramazan: he is incredibly open and sincere, despite his sullen look. Under his makeshift roof a lot of Turkish tea was drunk, and many stories were told.
The owner does not like to be photographed, but allowed his house to be captured, though asking surprisingly: “What’s so interesting? It’s all so old and ordinary.”
Jars of pickled peppers, old corks, wine bottles, shells, worn cups on the table and a lot of other things, it would seem like garbage but somehow creates the conversational atmosphere .
“At first I wanted to stay here for a month, maximum three. But the lack of fuss, busy roads, endless problems forced me to stay here forever. Most of the year a string of holidaymakers rush here on the dusty road, but I’m not against them, because this place is known little, and those who know – are truthful people, and their number is growing.”
Happy children’s laughter rings through the neighborhood, a couple of lovers sitting in an embrace whispering something, everywhere a barbecue flavor and happy talk about everything. But the sun slowly floats down, lost somewhere behind the hills, the departing cars raise dust along the sandy road, taking with them the children’s laughter and whispers and conversations. Ramazan is with his faithful dog and cat, opening another bottle of grog and waiting for the next morning.
Text and photos by DoTravelMore.
Edit by Anna Moss
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