CRIMEA: FIVE DAYS INTO THE WILD

Crimea Peninsula became much closer. I did not miss the opportunity to use this factand plunged into the atmospheric reality of Crimea.

Approximately night 11 hours are needed to get from Sochi to Anapa – it is on the southern side of Russia (or just 3 hours from Moscow to Simferopol,capital of Crimea, by place, though it is not my case).  The dawn at six at the bus station was amazing with the accompaniment of a tramp’s drums there. Another couple of hours to the port of Caucasus and here we are, my brother and I, in line at the ticket office waiting  for tickets to the  ferry across the Kerch Strait to the Crimea peninsula.

We purchased the tickets to Crimea finally, and the crowd, run by young employees with signs, carried us to the very top of the ferry where WI-FI worked.паром в КрымCAPE FIOLENT, SEVASTOPOLWe reached the port of Crimea literally in 30 minutes, it was full of buses, but all of them did not accept us, because they were intended for holders of “single tickets”. Marshrutka number 1 to the bus station “Kerch”, which someone advised, could not accommodate all comers even twice, so we found the bus driver to Simferopol, which through the mountainless Theodosius area took us to the bus station of Simferopol in five hours.Крым

After some ordeals through the city, we found ourselves in a dormitory of the Crimean Federal University, where they met with another brother and his girlfriend, who became our official and omniscient guide in Crimea and showed the dining room, where the reward for the trip was dinner for only 150 rubles.

Our journey then continued after all through fields and mountain tunnels on the train to the railway station of Sevastopol, where we, having spent our nerves and some more cash in the minibuses, finally reached Cape Fiolent.

Crimea

The sun had already set, and at dusk it was not noticeable that between the sea and the rock there is another layer – a forest, and there – a whole campground. Yes, that’s a camp, a small small state with its own rules.
Somehow we came down with backpacks on a non-existent trail, we finally put up the tents in the first place and slept finally after such a long journey from Sochi to Cape Fiolent.

In the morning, by rearranging the tents in a more convenient place with a view of the sea, we went to explore the neighborhood. Than however, and engaged in three days.

Crimea

The camp is located throughout the middle layer of the rock. The population of the tent state changes every day, but some inhabitants live there for several months with whole families, at night they catch fish, which they sell in the mornings.

Мыс Фиолент

The atmosphere was incredibly friendly. In the morning everyone greets each other on the way to the stream of pure water, there is also a shower, very different from everything that we usually call a shower. Then everyone goes to the beaches, where the extreme paths lead.
Element of crime in the camp is almost absent, so you can leave tents without supervision, and boldly go to conquer the water expanses with a mask, the underwater world is full of all kinds of inhabitants.

At sunset, all amicably gather at the edge of the rock and, listening to the mournful gyaling or the magic sounds of Tibetan singing bowls, lookig at the sunset. This is a very emotional moment.

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Residents of Sevastopol called Fiolent not only the cape itself, but also a stretch of coastline about 10 kilometers long, largely built up by cottages and cottages.

East of Cape Fiolent, on the narrow strip of the shore is hidden Yashmovy beach, not wild at all, but because it’s crowded.
To get to it you need to go down the stairs with 811 steps. Opposite the beach in the sea there are towers a rock with the cross of St. George, who, according to the tribute, appeared to the sailors and saved them from the storm. Miraculously surviving seafarers founded in this place a monastery.

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Cape Fiolent will remain in memory as an island of another life with its secret laws, where everyone is a friend, a fellow traveler, like you, who by his own will or by chance happened to be on the seashore in a tent. There we met incredibly interesting people who, under the light of countless stars, told us their stories. So, Саша Савицких  has appeared the Belgorod poet, and two guys from Donetsk have told us how they had been lost in the Big canyon of Crimea.


ALIMOVA BALKA, BAKHCHISARAY

The next point of our trip was Alimova Balka, which is located on the left bank of the Kachin valley, between the villages Bashtanivka and Predeschelnoe, directly opposite the famous Kachi-Kalion, near the town of Bakhchisaray, where we reached by bus from Sevastopol.

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Alimova Balka is a place of power, it is assumed that here were the very first settlements of people, as evidenced by the rock paintings.
How to get to the place and what to see along the way is very well described here. It is named after the Crimean Robin Hood – Alim, who took money from the rich and gave it to the poor. That’s what they say.

Two hours of climbing on the thorny paths were crowned with success, we reached the top of Stupa, from where an incredible view was opened. There we spent a night in the tents under the sky, strewn to the horizon with stars, listening to songs from the bottom of the tract.


 

YALTA AND GURZUF

After five nights spent in a tent, the hostel “SOBAKA” in the city of Yalta, where we found ourselves on the evening of the next day, seemed a huge cozy palace with many rooms.
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There we met a couple of Chinese students who explored the peninsula for two weeks on their vacation, practicing Russian and not letting go of the phones, and a 65-year-old woman who opened our eyes to the fact that in Russia the retirees’ are not those just sitting on the benches near the entrances, but also volunteering, for example, at the Olympic Games in Sochi, where she traveled and received a colossal experience, and now travelling across the Crimea and enjoys the views.

From Yalta you can get to Gurzuf. The bus №106 from the bus station took us all in half an hour to the place.

 

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Crimea, namely Gurzuf, is associated with childhood. Therefore, every time coming here, you experience incredible pleasure, images pop up in your mind.

So following the pictures at the memory, we found the market in the heart of the tangled streets. There we bought suluguni cheese and wonderful lavash and sat on the steps, chewing this luxuriance, without noticing the crowd, eager for the beach.

Then we found the Gurzuf dacha of Chekhov, went to the museum, and then swam in the bay, where you can get to, only by paying a ticket to this museum.

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PORT CRIMEA

From Yalta we went by two buses to the bus station in Kerch via Simferopol. At the place arrived late at night, and on some passing bus to Krasnodar, the driver was asked to take us to the Port of Crimea, because. a taxi is terribly expensive, and minibuses at one am in the morning do not run unfortunately.But the ferries are operating. Luck! And finally we were in the port of Caucasus, where we hitchhiked to Anapa and continued our journey to the north. We were catching the car in the predawn limans, and it was amazing view.

PRICES AND ADDRESSES

  • The ticket for the night bus of Sochi-Anapa costs about 500 rubles. Leaves from here. It is better to find the departure hours by calling the station in advance. And come beforehand, otherwise, if tickets are bought from the driver, you can stay without a seat and stand in the aisle. Or sit there on the floor.
  • A single ticket for the ferry can be bought here.
  • The ticket for the bus from the port of Kerch to Simferopol will cost 300-400 rubles.
  • There are a lot of dining rooms in the Crimea, they are cheap and tasty: in Simferopol – at the railway station somewhere here, in Yalta – at the intersection of Pushkinskaya Street and Botkinskaya Street, in Gurzuf – the dining room “At Home”
  • Bed in the room type “dorm” in the hostel “Dog” was 12$ per night.

You also may like stories and photographs from Russia. Check RUSSIAN STORIES.

 

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